Save Mexico City!
I will sound a rare sincere note in today's blog on behalf of Mexico City's put-upon street vendors. An excellent article in The New York Times illuminates what is, to me, the central issue of urban life. Who controls the streets, and at what cost? For all the "broken windows" talk about New York City in the 90s, for all the tourist-friendly boosterism and reduced crime rates, can anyone doubt that Mayor Giuliani's war on food vendors and street artists left the city a somewhat sanitized version of its former self? Can anyone really claim that Chicago is a better city now that the Maxwell Street market has been replaced by a bland landscape of parking lots and dorm buildings? And what about cities that have not, for the most part, been gentrified, like Philadelphia? The Italian Market, trash-can fires, rotten vegetables and all, gives the city an "authentic" feel that so many American places lack.
The issues Mexico City is facing today have always been part of urban life. Balzac's novels, particularly Lost Illusions, describe Paris before the Third Republic gentrifiers began to plow the teeming city over, turning it into the visitor-friendly metrolpolis it is today. Dickensian London was a roiling repository of disease and injustice, but it was also a rollicking urban carnival. Today's modern cities, both European and North American, struggle with a dichotomy. Ethnic neighborhoods are often the most viscerally "interesting," but they also are poorer and more dangerous. But for people who actually live in those cities, the culture of those neighborhoods make the urban experience worthwhile. I've spent a lot of time in Amsterdam. People there go to neighborhood markets every week, but they don't spend a lot of time at museums. Such is how it should be. A city isn't healthy if it's wholly shaped in the image of the tourism board.
For Mexico, these issues are only intensified by poverty on the one hand and a strong tradition of street vending on the other. Do you really want to put thousands of people out of relatively legitimate work so upper-middle-class couples can stroll arm-in-arm through the park after the opera? It takes a leap of political imagination to think of the guy selling bootleg copies of bad U.S. pop music as an equal citizen to a billionaire fast-food magnate who wants untrammelled access to his restaurants. But that leap must be made.
After all, if the street vendors are put out of business, where do they go? This is not Mexico's elite class. It's not a choice of tamale vendor or law student. It's more a choice of tamale vendor or maquiladora worker, or criminal, or illegal immigrant. The choice for these people is that stark, the margin that thin.
From a purely selfish point of view, I like cities with street vendors. The best food I've eaten in Mexico has come off street-vendor carts, I wouldn't buy most of the crap the other vendors sell. But I defend their right to sell it, and I speak, I hope, for a large class of people who want to visit cities because of their real life, and their real culture, not some genteel facsimile. City life isn't only for the precious, and we shouldn't pretend otherwise.
Yours in the Revolution,
Che
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